The Quick-Release Key guarantees garage access anytime providing The Quick-Release Key guarantees garage access anytime providing exterior manual operation of any brand of garage door opener. It allows garage access during power outages and other opener failures. Compatible with a wide range of metal or wood garage doors this convenient option is ideal for vaulted garages with no ...  More + Product Details Close
We live in a recently completed townhouse that was built with double-wall construction. That construction method was touted by the builder as what would keep sound from penetrating between the units. But we can hear the next door neighbors' TV and stereo, and sometimes voices and even snoring, through the wall. While sometimes it's the volume, mostly it's the bass sounds coming through the wall. They say they don't hear us, but we keep our bass turned down. They crank up the bass, and they are not going to change that. They also are not going to do anything construction-wise to help from their side. What is the best way for us to try to block the low frequency/bass sounds from penetrating the existing wall into our side?
We have the best team of expert professionals who know how to handle each and every type of garage door and its components. This is because all of our technicians go through a rigorous train-ing process, covering every known garage door repair technique. We do not let them onto the field until we know that they are completely trained, and can perform a job to perfection. Aside from this, they are continually updated with all the latest knowledge, information and training in order to do their work efficiently.

The history of the garage door could date back to 450 BC when chariots were stored in gatehouses, but in the U.S. it arose around the start of the 20th century. As early as 1902, American manufacturers—including Cornell Iron Works—published catalogs featuring a "float over door." Evidence of an upward-lifting garage door can be found in a catalog in 1906.[4]
Of course, the problem of the door not shutting did not occur when the technician was trying to fix it, but he really seemed to believe me and tried many times to get it to happen. He did lubricate everything and did some adjustments though so maybe it won't happen again! Since the spring is 25 years old, I chose to replace it while he was here. Really appreciate his kindness and that he worked so hard on my door.
For garage doors with windows, try to match the glass style of your house windows to provide a more consistent look. It’s also recommended that you install insulated windows if your garage is heated or air conditioned. If you opt for an uninsulated garage door, make sure it’s made of thick steel – specifically 24-gauge. Thicker steel will help prevent dents.
Using your drill, add tension to the torsion spring. This system uses a single spring for a double door, but many manufacturers use two springs for a double door. The painted line on the spring acts as a gauge for the number of turns you put on the spring. To keep the bar from turning while you’re adding tension, attach a locking pliers to the bar on both ends of the spring. Apply lubricant for garage doors to the spring.

Installing a garage door opener with a battery backup unit is definitely an option that you should consider. This will give you peace of mind knowing that you will still be able to operate your garage door during a power outage. Garage door openers with battery backup units generally run $50-$100 more than garage door openers without this feature. This added feature is not necessary, but will ensure that your garage door opens when the power is out.


what should be the length of the drain vent. I had it at the roof level. But since I am getting bad smell in my house via bathrooms (or may be via roof door), I have just extended the length of the vent pipe. Is there any scientific method to estimate the right length? Plus is there any tester to test from where the bad sewage odor is coming from into the living room. It's a two-story villa.
Garage door springs come in two styles: torsion (see above), which mounts on the header above the door, and extension (Photo 1), which floats above the upper roller track. In the past, extension springs were safer to install but didn’t have containment cables running through the center of the spring. Without cable, these springs become dangerous, heavy whips when they break. They also tend to be noisier than torsion springs, and we recommend you use them only if you don’t have the 12 in. of headroom above the door that a torsion spring requires.
@Neil What is the use of repeating lessons when there is so much more to be learned? Technology has moved on from the adz. Plumbers use PEC, insulation is sprayed, glue-lams allow for open floor plans and furnaces are no longer stoked with coal. As for the new people, if these trades cannot attract fresh blood we will all be unable to get homes built and repairs made. I don't yearn for my first home with the leaky concrete block foundation, failing well pump and an oil furnace held up by the plenum. I'll take heat pumps, solar panels and PVC waste pipes any day.You can get all the sill plate repairs and flitch beams demos you need on YouTube.
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